It was an early evening in November 2023 at the 800-year-old Master of the Nets Garden in Suzhou, Portland’s sister city. Lantern light glimmered on the ponds, the scent of osmanthus hung in the air—and just inches away from me, in a water-bounded pavilion, a short performance of the Kunqu opera classic The Peony Pavilion unfolded. I was completely enchanted.

I thought: We have to bring more of this to Portland at Lan Su.

Kunqu performance “Stroll in the Garden” (遊園)  from The Peony Pavilion. Du Liniang and her maid, Chunxiang, sing of youthful longing and the desire for love. November 2023, at the Master of the Nets Garden.

If you’re not familiar with Kunqu (昆曲), it is Suzhou at its most iconic. Known as the “mother of Chinese opera,” Kunqu predates and deeply influenced its northern cousin, Beijing’s Peking Opera. But Kunqu is different—it’s more elegant, far more poetic, and hauntingly beautiful.

The most famous Kunqu story is The Peony Pavilion. An everlasting love story set in a garden, it was written in the Ming dynasty—a time of rigid morality—yet dared to proclaim something so radical: women’s desire and the freedom to pursue love. Its heroine, Du Liniang, dreams of her true love, falls for him in her sleep in her beautiful garden, and refuses to let that dream die—even after death. She literally returns from the grave to follow her heart! In a society that prized obedience and silence, this was scandalous—and that’s exactly why it endures.

Kunqu is so deeply woven into Suzhou’s cultural DNA. Growing up in Taiwan, my dad would reminisce about Suzhou as paradise on earth—endless canals, bridges like brushstrokes, gardens upon gardens, and always the soft, melodic sound of Kunqu in the background. When I visited Suzhou in 2023, even our dinner host sang impromptu lines from The Peony Pavilion. It felt so natural—Suzhou is a city long celebrated for its scholar’s culture, where even the opera is poetry, singing of art, freedom, and love.

Kunqu performance “Consorting with a Ghost” (幽媾) from The Peony Pavilion. Du Liniang is finally reunited with her lover, Liu Mengmei, at Lan Su, summer 2023.

Lan Su is turning 25 this September—what better time to bring the spirit of Kunqu to Portland with a rare, immersive experience for our community? On September 12, Lan Su will host “What You Don’t Know About Chinese Kunqu Opera”, an intimate Q&A with visiting master performers Xu Jiawen (徐佳雯) and Wang Xin (王鑫) of the world-renowned Jiangsu Suzhou Kunqu Opera Troupe. I’ll be there with bilingual volunteers to help guests connect with these extraordinary artists.

On September 13, Suzhou Heritage Day, visitors can peek behind the scenes of Kunqu’s elaborate hair and makeup at 11 AM (with exclusive early access for members at 10 AM), then enjoy highlights from The Peony Pavilion performed in the garden at 12, 2, and 3 PM.

A Kunqu hair & makeup demo at Lan Su, Summer 2023.

Opportunities like this are incredibly rare—traditional Kunqu performers are almost impossible to find in the U.S. This ancient art has been passed down in Suzhou from grand masters to students for generations, keeping it alive in the very place where it began.

As Lan Su celebrates its 25th anniversary, my hope is to share the magical time I experienced in Suzhou—but with a Portland touch. An immersive encounter with this timeless art form, led by some of its finest living artists, in the garden we all cherish and adore. I can’t wait to see you there!